What Is This Smell? Oud Edition

by Sophie She

What Is This Smell? Oud Edition

18 Mar 2024

When you go into the mall, and literally any mall in Dubai, you always come around a loudly-smelling corner or shop named Oud. No, not the musical instrument, the perfume.

Oud is a rich and woody ingredient derived from the resinous heartwood of the Aquilaria tree, triggered by an infection from the Phialophora parasitica fungus. Due to this unpredictability, a great number of trees must be harvested to obtain the resin, leading to conservation efforts in many countries. So, some trees are now artificially inoculated with the fungus to stimulate resin production.

Also known as gaharu, agarwood, or aloeswood, this prized material originates primarily from Thailand, Laos, Burma, Vietnam, and India. It imparts a deep and intense woody aroma. Today, it stands as a symbolic representation of Emirati culture and heritage, being one of the most cherished parts of it.

The history

The history of oud perfume begins in antiquity, with its origins deeply rooted in ancient civilisations such as Egypt, Mesopotamia, and the Indus Valley. Here, the resinous heartwood of the Aquilaria tree, yielding the prized oud essence, held profound mystical and sacred significance.

Photo: Chong Fat

Oud was revered for its enchanting aroma and believed to possess divine properties. It was utilised in religious ceremonies, cosmetics, embalming practices, and traditional medicine. Its presence permeated daily life, symbolising luxury, spirituality, and cultural heritage.

Oud along the Silk Road

As trade routes expanded and civilisations flourished, oud's allure spread along the ancient Silk Road, connecting distant lands and cultures. From China to India and the Arabian Peninsula, the aromatic substance found its way to the courts of kings and emperors, where it was prized for its exotic fragrance. Oud became a symbol of wealth and sophistication, adorning palaces, garments, and personal adornments. Its demand fueled a thriving trade network that spanned continents, enriching societies and connecting diverse peoples.

The Golden Age of Islamic perfumery

During the Islamic Golden Age, spanning from the 8th to the 14th centuries, oud reached new heights of popularity and refinement. Perfumers in the Arab world mastered the art of distilling oud oil, extracting its essence with meticulous care and precision. These skilled artisans crafted exquisite fragrances that captivated the senses and became highly coveted symbols of luxury and sophistication. Oud perfume became an essential accessory for royalty and aristocracy, symbolising status, elegance, and cultural identity.

Oud's influence on Western perfumery

The Renaissance era witnessed the spread of oud perfume to Europe, where it left an indelible mark on the development of Western perfumery. European perfumers, captivated by oud's exotic allure, incorporated it into their creations and blended it with local botanicals to produce unique and captivating fragrances. Oud's aromatic profile became synonymous with refinement and indulgence, inspiring the creation of iconic scents that endure to this day.

"La toeletta" (1760) by Pietro Longhi

Modern resurgence and global appeal

In the modern era, oud perfume has experienced a resurgence in popularity, captivating the global fragrance market with its exotic and sophisticated appeal. Perfumers around the world continue to explore oud's potential, experimenting with new blends and interpretations that pay homage to its rich heritage while embracing contemporary sensibilities.

Although, in many exclusive fragrances from top brands, legit oud is often absent due to its high price, costing more than gold. But how do they fake it? Perfumers use reconstituted versions or blends of other natural or synthetic woody scents like cedar, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, and incense. These are often paired with cypriol, a potent woody note, as well as leather and animalistic undertones, creating rich and intense fragrances distinct from fresher scents featuring citrus or floral notes.

Moreover, one of the oud’s distinctive features is its ability to linger throughout a fragrance's entire duration, from the initial application to its final stages. Despite being synthetic, modern faux ouds possess remarkable strength and leave a captivating trail, making them highly effective in perfumery.

However, you will be able to tell the difference once you will get a bite of the real deal Oud. For example, at the Perfume House in Dubai’s Old Town.

The true Oud in Shindagha Museum

This unique piece of Oud, carefully preserved from Sheikha Shaikha's personal collection, is now showcased at the Perfume House within the Al Shindagha Museum. Oud, a dark and scented heartwood, holds significant importance in traditional Emirati perfumery, representing a cherished aspect of cultural heritage.

A Present piece of Oud, was prominently displayed in Sheikha Shaikha's private gathering space, or "majlis", during her lifetime. Generously donated to the Al Shindagha Museum, it now forms part of a captivating exhibit at the Perfume House, dedicated to highlighting the significance of Emirati perfumery.

Within the Perfume House, you can explore an array of artefacts related to perfume-making, offering insights into the creation process and the journey of a perfumer. Oud, in its various forms, such as wooden chips, incense, or oils (Dehn Al Oud), has been utilised for millennia. However, its rarity and high-cost stem from the depletion of the wild resource, with only a fraction of Aquilaria trees producing Oud. The quality of Oud varies depending on factors such as geographical location, botanical species, age of the tree, and the specific section of the heartwood harvested. All in all, you can learn it all in the Perfume House and enrich your horizon with some new stuff!

Where can you buy the real one in Dubai?

According to our colleagues from Visit Dubai, you can try Oud at Ajmal and Arabian Oud boutiques in various locations.

Besides, you should ask the perfume enthusiasts who work in the Perfume House. Surely, they will be happy to guide you through what our city offers.

by Sophie She