by Dara Morgan
Not All Sandals Are Created Equal: Choosing the Right Birkenstock
28 Jun 2025
Remember when ugly shoes were simply ugly? Not charmingly ironic, not normcore, not stealth-wealth-but-on-your-feet — just plain fugly. Think Crocs, Uggs, and yes, Birkenstocks — all of which went from punchline to catwalk faster than you could say “dadcore.”
It is difficult now to picture a time when these foot-shaped shoes were considered a fashion faux pas — but that is what happens when the entire millennial generation wakes up with sore knees and a desperate yearning for arch support.
Suddenly, a sandal that makes you look like a retired school teacher on a field trip becomes… aspirational.
And it turns out, there is a whole world of Birkenstock models beyond the two most worshipped: Arizona and Boston — though I do remain spiritually bonded to both.
Case in point: our publisher Sofia Brontvein recently made a majestic leap into a swimming pool — unfortunately wearing her suede Bostons. A bold move for any human, an irreversible one for suede. Thus this guide was born — a deeply researched, semi-emotional look at what Birkenstock to wear where, when, and why.
But first — why is everyone still so obsessed?
Birkenstocks have been around since the 18th century, which is frankly longer than most empires. The story begins in 1774 with one Johann Adam Birkenstock — a cobbler of humble beginnings who likely had no idea his surname would one day be tattooed on the feet of fashion editors and university lecturers alike.
By 1896, his descendant Konrad had created the brand’s now-iconic contoured footbed — a design that has remained unchanged for over a century, much like your dad’s taste in music.
They are comfortable. They breathe. They last. And — whisper it — they actually age well. Think of them as the Levi’s 501 of footwear: slightly rigid at first, but over time, they mould into your life and become something close to a personality trait.
Then, of course, came the cool. In the ‘90s, Kate Moss wore Arizonas on the beach at Camber Sands, and that was that — normcore found its queen. Since then, Birkenstock has collaborated with the likes of Dior, Rick Owens, and Manolo Blahnik. If that isn't fashion validation, I don't know what is.
So yes — they are in style. But more importantly — they make life easier.
And here is the great Birkenstock decision chart (without the actual chart):
For everyday use
First choice: Arizona
Two straps. Endless options. I wear mine with everything from jeans to kaftans. Though I must warn you — they aren't ideal for heroic sightseeing (35,000 steps in Paris nearly broke me). But for errands, cafés, awkward family barbecues — Arizonas will see you through.
Honourable mentions: Tulum & Kyoto
Tulum: Slightly sportier, crossed straps, a heel strap — ideal if you want a bit more grip without taking out your hiking boots.
Kyoto: A love letter to the Zürich, reimagined. Velcro (yes, chic now), rivets, soft suede. I picture mine with kimono robes and big sunglasses, ideally while making matcha and pretending I know how to pronounce “zen.”
For the beach or pool
Say No to: cork suede
They may look sophisticated on your towel, but the minute water enters the chat, it is game over. Suede hates moisture, sand, and salt.
Say Yes to: EVA
These are the Birkenstocks you can take swimming — literally. Lightweight, waterproof, and more forgiving than most relationships. Modelled on the classic cork styles, but made from EVA (a fancy rubber, not a mysterious ex). Perfect for beach holidays, poolside drama, and garden hose emergencies.
For the travelling (to become someone's airport crush)
First choice: Boston
Slippable, sock-friendly, and just rebellious enough to still feel subcultural. Bostons have become the go-to for people who want to travel smart and look deeply relaxed even after 13-hour flight at baggage claim.
Also consider: London & Tokio
London: A closed-back Boston with added maturity. The kind of shoe that says, “Yes, I read the FT Weekend — why do you ask?”
Tokio: Like a Boston, but with an ankle strap — great for year-round wear and people prone to losing shoes mid-escalator.
For the global nomad (or just someone who gets cold easily)
The cosy crew: Andermatt, Lutry, Zermatt
Andermatt: A slipper with options — choose your insole depending on your emotional state. Standard? Soft? Shearling? The power is yours.
Lutry: A slipper with commitment issues — wear it as a clog or backstrap, depending on your mood.
Zermatt: Looks like something your grandfather would wear — which, in 2025, isn't an insult. Actually, it is a compliment.
Ideal for transitional weather, lazy Sundays, and existential crises spent wandering the flat wondering if one can be both productive and horizontal.
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